:: Care Difficulty
Recommended as a good choice of snake for the beginner due to its size, temperament and ease of care. They tend to be very docile; Corn Snakes are one of the best snakes to purchase if you want a pet you can handle.

:: Distribution
Corn Snakes are found in the southeastern United States. They range from North Carolina south to the Florida Keys and west to the Mississippi.

:: Description
A slender snakes with a long prehensile tail. A normally coloured Corn Snake has black-edged reddish brown saddles down its length with a tan background. There are smaller, spots on the flanks. On the head, there is an arrow shaped mark. Their underside is a white and black checked pattern. In cross-section, the body of a Corn Snake has is shaped like a loaf of bread, which is typical among the rat snakes. The colours are highly variable and Corn snakes are now available in dozens of colour forms. The most common variations are the amelanistic, (albino) and the Anerythristic (Black albino) they are an active nocturnal and diurnal snake, which frequent a variety of habitats and often found in or around human dwellings.

:: Size
As a hatchling, Corn Snakes normally measure 20-28 cms. Typical individuals range from 1-1 ½ metres . The largest recorded size for a Corn Snake is just under 2 metres.

:: Housing
Hatchlings can be reared in geo-flats, an adult will have ample space in a vivarium 75x50x50 cms. Although a larger space will definitely be appreciated by your animal. Corn snakes can be housed together however if you are considering breeding then greater success is normally experienced if the animals are kept separate prior to their mating. Corn snakes can be described as the Houdini of the snake world so as for snakes, in general, be absolutely certain that the cage is escape-proof.

The choice of Substrate for a Corn Snake is often dependent on your own preference. Bark chippings (not Cedar as these can be toxic to your snake), wood shavings, corncob, newspaper, or natural wood cat litter are all absorbent and easy to maintain. For hygiene reasons remove waste matter as soon as practicable this will also ensure that there are no unpleasant odours from your vivarium. The entire substrate should be replaced every month or so.

The Vivarium should be heated with a hot spot at one end of 25-30 C (80-90 F). The heat source should be positioned at the extreme end of the cage, allowing for a thermal gradient between the two ends. Hide boxes on both the warm and cool sides should be available to allow your Corn Snakes to hide away and climbing branches, although not necessary, will be appreciated. Artificial and UV light are not required although basking lights can be effective, as long as the enclosure does not overheat. At night, the temperature can be allowed to drop but should not go below 18 C (65°F). Humidity is not a critical keeping factor except when the snake is in shed. At that time a very light misting once a day or every other day will promote a clean, healthy shed. Provide clean water at all times. The water bowl should be heavy to stop it tipping over and large enough for the snake to soak in. Corn Snakes do not soak frequently but they will do so on occasion, especially during a shed or on very hot days.

:: Diet and Feeding
In the wild Corn Snakes take a variety of prey including most small mammals, lizards, and birds. In captivity, they almost always accept defrosted mice and rats without a problem. If you are new to the hobby we suggest that you purchase an animal with an established feeding regime. Hatchlings should be fed every 4-6 days adults no more than once every 7-10 days. The width of the prey item should not exceed 1 ½ times the width of the snakes' head. Watch out for your snakes weight as the backbone and skeletal frame should not be readily visible, but the scales should not be distended and showing the skin between them either. If you over feed your animal it will become obese and associated health problems may follow. Because of their slow metabolism an overweight snake will take a very long time to lose it's excess fat

:: Breeding
Most Rat snakes will not breed unless a cooling period is provided. The snakes should be cooled to 8-10 C for about 2-3 months usually November or December. This temperature should be reached gradually to reduce thermal shock. Only healthy snakes should be cooled and used for breeding. Prior to cooling the snake must be fasted for up to one month to allow the passage of food through the snakes' body (any food left in the gut will rot and can kill your snake). In the spring, usually late February or March the temperature of the snakes should gradually be raised and feeding can commence. After several good feeds the snakes can be paired. Mating is more successful if the female has just sloughed. Copulation can take continue from 10 minutes to several hours and may be repeated several times. After you have observed the animals mating, part them and try again after a few days, to make sure.

If mating has been successful, the female will normally stop eating after a couple of weeks. She will be ready to lay her eggs in approximately 60 days. Between 10- 15 days prior to laying the female will undergo a pre-laying slough. At this point a nest box should be placed in the vivarium. A plastic container such as an ice cream tub lined with sphagnum moss will suffice. The female can spend several days in the box prior to laying. Once the eggs have been laid they should be removed as soon as possible to a plastic box with a substrate of moist vermiculite. The humidity should be maintained at 100% and kept at a constant temperature around 25 C (80 F). The average number of eggs laid is between 10 and 20; they are about 42-50mm long, 20- 22mm diameter. There is no need to separate the eggs, and unlike birds eggs they must not be turned. The eggs are normally ivory white do not worry if they discolour slightly, however if they appear to collapse and go mouldy they should, if possible, be removed to avoid infecting the other eggs. When the juveniles arrive they should be placed into separate containers. The will slough after about 7 days and will then accept food. Sexual maturity can be reached at 2.5 years.

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